Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
